CocinArte

In my final week here, I'm finally getting around to doing some cool things I should have started long ago. Last night, I went to a vegetarian restaurant called CocinArte here in Leon. But I didn't go to eat; I have already done that a couple of times. I went there to go volunteer in the kitchen and learn how to cook some vegetarian meals. I happen to know the main cook during most days of the week, so luckily I was able to set this experience up.

I guess I need to explain that in Latin America, vegetarianism is a rarity. People tend to eat meat with every lunch and dinner if possible. So the fact that a vegetarian restaurant even exists in Leon is pretty remarkable. I've only met one Nicaraguan vegetarian. It turns out that CocinArte is mostly frequented by tourists, and very few Leoneses. It's a very nice restaurant and I have had good dining experiences there, which is mainly why I was interested in learning how to cook their dishes. Traffic at the restaurant was light last night, but I helped out in making some Indio Viejo, pesto spaghetti, tofu with tomato sauce, and a couple other things. I'm still in the most basic stages of learning, but I plan on going as much as possible here in my last week to learn as much as I can. I'm even learning less flashy things like better techniques for cutting up vegetables, which will be very practical for me in the future. I'm also washing a lot of dishes, but it's definitely worth it for the knowledge I'm gaining.

On a final note, on Fridays (like tonight), they have "romantic night," which means they have candlelit dinners, live music, and roses on the tables. I'm hoping there is a good crowd so that I can keep learning.

Cancha 23 de Julio

In downtown Leon there is a basketball court called La Cancha 23 de Julio. It is a memorial to four students at the UNAN-Leon who were killed in 1959 by troops of Anastasio Somoza, the Nicaraguan dictator from the 1930s to the 1950s. Here is a picture of the mural on the basketball court depicting what happened during the student protests, and also a photo of what the site looks like today. (click the images for bigger versions)



I walk by this corner several times per day, without pausing to think about what happened there. From my vantage point in peaceful Nicaragua today, it is hard to believe that it was once the site of murders. If it weren't for the mural, I would have never known about it at all. I guess thinking back on the crises of the past forces me to recognize the fragility of the future, not specifically of Nicaragua, but in general. After all, I suppose that's part of the point of the mural, to remind us to work to ensure a safe, happy future because nothing is guaranteed.

Lastly, to end on a happy note, here is a photo of the basketball courts in action. There are some pretty good ballers from time to time, and during the night, a lot of skateboarders come in and work on tricks.

Top of the Cathedral

Here are a couple of pics from the top of the cathedral. This first photo is of me at the top, where they ring the bell. I'm at the same location as this guy from my pictures of the festival for Saint Jerónimo.

It turns out that the roof of the cathedral is very unusually shaped, with lots of little domes all over the surface.


This is a picture of the Alcaldía, which is basically City Hall, from the top of the cathedral. Interestingly enough, in order to raise money, the city occasionally rents out the top floor of the Alcaldía and turns it into a disco for private parties.


Lastly, this picture shows a little more of Leon. You can see a string of volcanoes in the background, a typical sight in Nicaragua. The church in the center of the photo is notable because it is one of the many churches in Leon connected to the cathedral by underground passageways. Apparently, in the olden days, the churches used to have lots of money and gold stored in them, and when emergency escapes were necessary, the tunnels came in useful. I didn't get much more detail out of my tour guide than that, but the tunnels are now sealed off (or so they claim!).

Alfombras

One of the traditions here in Leon is to make alfombras. These are images made of dyed saw dust that they create in the middle of the street. There are tons and tons of these. Here are a couple of pictures that I took. This first one is a couple of kids putting the finishing touches on a cross.

Here are a couple more folks working on an alfombra.


And lastly, here is a completed one:

Semana Santa

Semana Santa is Holy Week; this is week leading up to Easter. It's a big deal here in Leon, and there are processions every day, along with other festivities. Here are some pictures of the week.

This first picture is an "action shot" of the festivities outside of la Iglesia San Francisco. People are selling Eskimo ice cream, hot dog caliente, and little toys and trinkets. All of the people out and about creates a very happy, warm atmosphere.
The second picture is of some folks getting some chicha, which here in Nicaragua is a hot pink colored drink with a corn base. On this particular day, you can get some chicha for free from various people on the street or houses if you go and ask for it en el nombre de San Benito (in the name of San Benito). Usually, you either bring your own cup, or they'll serve it to you Nicaraguan style in a sandwich bag.

Rosita - last look

Here are a couple of final pictures of Rosita before I move on to other topics besides the trip to the Atlantic Coast. These were taken by Andrew.

Sometimes, it can be surprisingly comfortable to be underneath a truck:

This is a serious parking job:

The Airline/Ice Cream Store

This is the place where you go to confirm your airline tickets and get a ride to the Rosita Airport. It also doubles as an ice cream parlor. Here is what it looks like from the outside.

And here is how it looks from the inside:

Notice the poster about what you're not allowed to bring on the plane, as well as the other poster with ice cream flavors.